"Wir wurzeln alle im Alltage.
Seine Gewohnheiten machen für die
meisten schlechthin das Leben aus.
In diesem Alltag, den bloss der unbesonnene
Élegant des Geistes bespöttelt, liegt etwas
sehr Grosses ... liegt unsere Cultur."
Michael Haberlandt: Cultur im Alltag. Wien 1900.



Montag, 30. Juni 2014

ANSICHTSSACHE NR. 61: Der Erste Weltkrieg in Briefen und Tagebüchern



Kriegsgefangenenkarte vom 29.11.1915 aus dem Lager 
Antipicha bei Tschita an Richard Weiskirchner. WBR, HS



In der Wienbibliothek im Rathaus ist noch bis 30. Jänner 2015 folgende Ausstellung zu sehen:
"'Es ist Frühling und ich lebe noch'. Eine Geschichte des Ersten Weltkriegs in Infinitiven. Von Aufzeichnen bis Zensieren".
Nähere Infos hier.
Einen Beitrag dazu gibt es auch in der Wiener Zeitung.



Samstag, 28. Juni 2014

DRUCKSACHE NR. 36: Kampf mit dem Kochlöffel






Heute in der Wiener Zeitung: Ein Schwerpunkt zum Ersten Weltkrieg, darunter ein Beitrag von mir im Extra zum Thema: "Kampf mit dem Kochlöffel. Als 'Soldaten des Hinterlandes' spielten Hausfrauen im Ersten Weltkrieg eine wichtige Rolle".
Zur Abbildung (eine Werbeanzeige aus dem Jahr 1918): die Kochkiste erlebte in den Kriegsjahren einen Popularisierungsschub, da sie Brennstoff bzw. Heizenergie ebenso sparen half wie Zeit - beides war Mangelware.

Susanne Breuss: Kampf mit dem Kochlöffel. Als "Soldaten des Hinterlandes" spielten Hausfrauen im Ersten Weltkrieg eine wichtige Rolle. In: Wiener Zeitung Extra, 28./29. Juni 2014, S. 36. 
Hier geht es zur Online-Version.



Freitag, 20. Juni 2014

DRUCKSACHE NR. 35: Digitalisierung der Österreichischen Zeitschrift für Volkskunde



Eine Information der Bibliothek des Österreichischen Museums für Volkskunde, Wien: 


Die Österreichische Zeitschrift für Volkskunde (ÖZV) erscheint seit 1895 (Unterbrechung 1944–1946). Seit 1946 als "Neue Serie" geführt und gezählt, war sie vierteljährlich erschienen. Seit 2012 wird die Zeitschrift in zwei Doppelheften mit rund 500 Seiten pro Jahr herausgegeben und seit 2011 praktiziert die Zeitschrift ein Peer-Review-Verfahren.
Die ÖZV hat nun, wie viele andere wissenschaftlichen Journale auch, ein Digitalisierungsprojekt durchgeführt. Seit kurzem gewährt das Online-Portal des Volkskundemuseums Wien einen Zugang zum Volltext all seiner seit Beginn erschienenen Jahrgänge. Die jeweils letzten beiden Jahrgänge der Zeitschrift sind auch weiterhin nur käuflich bzw. über ein Mitglieder-Abo zu erwerben.
Mit diesem Service will die Museums- bzw. Bibliotheksleitung seinen treuen Abonnentinnen und Abonnenten die Handhabung der Inhalte ihrer Zeitschrift erleichtern und auch neue Leserkreise für diese Publikation des Faches Europäische Ethnologie gewinnen.
Unter folgender URL sind die pdf-Dateien der einzelnen Jahrgänge abrufbar: http://www.volkskundemuseum.at/ozv_jahrgange
Die Inhalte sind mittels Volltextsuche erschließbar und stehen zum Download bzw. Druck zur Verfügung.

Kontakt:
Hermann Hummer
Österreichisches Museum für Volkskunde, Bibliothek
Laudongasse 15-19, 1080 Wien
http://www.volkskundemuseum.at
hermann.hummer@volkskundemuseum.at



Montag, 16. Juni 2014

TERMINSACHE NR. 67: Wear your nation - wear your utopia?! Clothing, fashion and beauty in historical perspective (CFP)



Tagung: Wear your nation - wear your utopia?! Clothing, fashion and beauty in historical perspective


Veranstalter: Dr. Anna Novikov (Deutsches Historisches Institut, Warsaw), Svenja Bethke (Institute for the History of the German Jews, Hamburg), Nathalie Keigel M.A. (University of Hamburg)
Datum, Ort: 12.01.2015-14.01.2015, Warsaw, German Historical Institute Warsaw, Al. Ujazdowskie 39, 00-540 Warsaw
Deadline: 01.08.2014

Concepts of dressing, fashion and beauty are particularly suitable as categories of analysis for research questions inspired by historical and cultural sciences. Crucial key concepts for These newer thematic research perspectives and related methodological approaches were provided especially by studies in fashion theory, which since the 1990’s have been influenced by the cultural studies as well as by art history, media and design studies (Craik 1994; Breward 1995; 1998; 1999; 2004; Steele 1988; 1997 et al.). As far back as “The Fashion System” (Barthes 1967), the notion of fashion in cultural sciences is increasingly classified as a “phenomenon of perception” (Lehnert 2012). This is accompanied by processes of cultural attribution, which largely depend on the particular actors in question and are subject to change over time. An additional field of research encompasses several social and economic practices related with fashion, e.g., the drafting of the design, advertising, distribution and consumption. Over the past years these questions have been adopted by historians. 

The connection of national or political self-understanding and physical appearance grew in importance by the time of the French Revolution. In certain historical and social constellations it constantly gained significance. This allows, inter alia, an explanation of the relatively high number of historical studies over the recent years, which consider the subject of fashion in the context of totalitarian and/or socialist systems.
Since everyone needs to dress, one can ask to which extent individuals and groups define themselves with regards to clothing, fashion and beauty ideals, or whether and how they disassociated themselves from these. In short, whether intended by the respective actors or not, (self-)identifications, categorizations, self-understandings and feelings of belonging can be clarified in this framework. Did people over the course of history also try to express national, religious or political belonging through their clothes? In these respects, manifestations of power relations can come into focus, whether in terms of the relations of (state) authorities and individuals or with regards to social stratification, individual and collective, generational differences or gender roles. 
A historical perspective and a focus on various geographical areas and communities permit to emphasize the constructed and dynamic nature of concepts of fashion and beauty. When was clothing classified as "fashion"; was this development linked to the emergence of a garment industry? When and how did fashion potentially act as a concept in strategies of modernization? What role did divide between rural and urban areas play?
In which contexts and social models did fashion have a negative connotation? Fashion was incompatible, for instance, with images of physical labour, especially in regions where, according to socialist utopias, new images of man, including their appearances, had to be formed. Communist parties sometimes viewed an emerging fashion culture critically. Also in Palestine, Zionists brought to the Kibbuzim a so called "Anti-Fashion", which was integrated into their ideals.
The communication of such ideals is directly linked to the question of visual representation and performance. What role did drawings and the emergence of photography play? What role did the rise of an entertainment industry, including magazines, play with regards to the distribution of clothes, fashion and beauty ideals? What transnational reference frameworks played a role in terms of aesthetic concepts in the spheres of fashion and clothing (for instance, "Paris fashion")? To what extent can processes of transfer and modification be observed, for instance in socialist countries, where Western models were adapted to one’s own needs?
In a three-day-workshop, with plenty of room for discussion, we would like to explore how ideals of clothing, fashion and beauty as categories of analysis allow for a new access to historical processes of negotiation in the context of nation-building processes and the implementation of social projects and utopias.
We aim for a broad geographical coverage with regard to the contributions. The chronological focus should be on the modern period. Both the actors, who determined and shaped the processes of negotiations on the question of the "fashionable", as well as the analysis of Areas of tension in economic, medial, political and social terms, that were behind the concrete expressions, should be brought into focus. The object of research should in principle be reflected and discussed as a historical category of analysis. Among other things, methodological and theoretical approaches (for instance of visual culture studies, of material culture, performativity, body history, etc.), whose applicability should be examined by using historical test case studies, are of interest.

The workshop will be held in English.
The committee invites researchers to submit abstracts for short presentations (in English), which are connected to the aforementioned topics. The inclusion of historical sources is considered a requirement.
Please send a 250 words abstract until 1 August 2014 per email to: fashionworkshop.dhi@gmail.com
Participants will be informed by 15 August 2014 about the results.
Costs for accommodation over the course of the workshop and travel expenses (to some extent) of invited speakers will be covered by the organizers.
Funded by the Deutsches Historisches Institut (DHI) Warsaw and the Institute for the History of German Jews (IGdJ), Hamburg
Kontakt:

Anna Novikov
German Historical Institute, Al. Ujazdowskie 39, 00-540 Warsaw
+48 22 525 8319
+48 22 525 8342
novikov@dhi.waw.pl

Quelle: hsozkult

Freitag, 6. Juni 2014